The Great Bear Sea on the Passing Cloud

Unplugged  -  August 22-30, 2016

Outer Shores encourages its clients to arrive a day early and stay a night in the area to expedite the next morning’s departure. If you fly into Bella Bella, you have to take a taxi from the airport to the dock where you board a water taxi to Denny Island. We stayed the night before the trip in the Cedar Lodge at Shearwater Resort, which is clean, very basic accommodation. There is also a restaurant and grocery store on the property. More importantly, it is your last opportunity to access phone and Internet service. Craig didn’t blink an eye at this, but Lynda is a news junkie and she likes to “be in the know.” This trip was an opportunity to become completely unplugged from the world around us. (Don’t worry; there is a satellite phone on board. In the event of an emergency, help can be called). Overall, it was very liberating to be free from the shackles of technology. It took a few days to completely relax, but it happened. Our focus became the warmth of the sun on our skin, the strength of the salty, sea breeze, and an insatiable search for wildlife, in the water and on shore.

There are ample opportunities for discussion and conversation with the crew and other guests, but the boat is large enough that you can find peace and solitude, if you want it. A favourite place to do that was sitting atop the foxhole hatch near the bow of the boat, high above the water line. This perch allowed you to connect with nature on a very personal level and take in the extensive beauty ahead of you.

Our Accommodation:

The Passing Cloud had three double guest cabins in use during our trip, but as one of our shipmates was on her own, there were only five guests on board. Our stateroom was in the bow and consisted of two ample sized bunks. Most mornings, Craig was one of the early risers, eager for coffee and the peace of the dawning day. Lynda preferred to snuggle deeper into her fluffy duvet and wait until the very last possible moment to exit her bunk. Each cabin has a vanity with a sink so you can brush your teeth and wash your face in the privacy of your room. There was ample space for all our clothing and personal belongings. We all shared one large head with a shower in the main cabin. There is a spacious salon below deck with an enviable naturalist’s library. The wooden beams, leather settees, natural light and oil heater make it a cozy place to hang out. Every evening we would meet there after dinner to review the day and preview the next day’s activities. Some people may not like living in such close quarters, but for us, it only enhanced the experience.

The Crew:

There are a couple of different crews on the Passing Cloud and while they are probably just as amazing as our crew, we felt extremely comfortable with the people we were sailing with on this
journey: our Captain, Russ Markel; first mate, Joel; naturalist, Spencer and chef extraordinaire, Tasha.


They were all very professional and constantly sharing their incredible knowledge, but the  atmosphere on the boat was friendly and fun. Meals were a social event as there were always two crewmembers dining with us.

Craig wanted to help and learn some of the sailing duties and he was heartily welcomed.

It was a personal experience like none other we have experienced. We felt like we were sailing with old friends.

The Food:

We all know the old saying “The way to someone’s heart is through his or her stomach.” Thanks to the outstanding culinary skills of Chef Tasha, we were in love by the end of Day 2. The food on the Passing Cloud is ample and delicious. It seems like we were always eating: breakfast, morning snack, lunch, afternoon snack and finally dinner. The menu was varied. A breakfast might be Heuvos Rancheros, French toast and bacon, porridge, or breakfast burritos. Examples of dinners would be salmon, roast potatoes, green beans and berry crumble for dessert, or short ribs on a cauliflower, white bean puree with brussel sprouts, and chocolate pudding with berries for dessert. It is remarkable, considering the size of the galley and the duration of the journey. 

The food is stashed in nooks and crannies all over the boat, in a small freezer down below deck and in multiple coolers on deck. There are no grocery stores along the way, so all the food is pre-ordered and delivered to the boat in Bella Bella prior to departure. Outer Shores also works very hard to accommodate dietary requests. One of the guests on our trip was a vegetarian and she ate just as well as the rest of us.

The Wildlife:

We’ll say right off the bat that we did not see any bears, never mind a rare spirit bear. We did, however, brave the rain and trek up a riverbed on Princess Royal Island and immerse ourselves in their habitat for several hours. The anticipation was immense, but we knew it was early in the season and a sighting was only a possibility. A few salmon were in the creek, flipping and flopping their way upstream. We found a stomp trail, a marking tree with tufts of hair; piles of fresh scat and old fish bones, but the bears remained elusive. It was incredibly peaceful sitting on the forest floor listening to the sound of the raindrops. Waiting. Rather than disappointment, we felt contentment. It would be an honour to see a bear in its natural environment, but we were happy to experience a snippet of the bears’ lifestyle. We have a greater appreciation of the need to preserve the bears’ habitat and a sense of gratitude towards those who have worked long and hard to protect this area.

That being said, we were fortunate enough to have some other wondrous wildlife encounters. On day one near the Gaudin Rocks, we witnessed some Humpback whales in the process of  “bubble net feeding.” As explained to us by Russ and Spencer, the whales were swimming to the surface in a circular motion blowing bubbles below a school of fish. As the circle got smaller, the fish were forced upwards in a compact group. We watched in anticipation as bubbles and small fish appeared on the surface of the water, then the whale emerged with its mouth wide open, capturing a huge mouthful of fish. For a moment it rested on the surface, then it dove down again and repeated the process. It was very impressive to watch. At times like these it would have been great to see what was happening underwater. 

On day two we were sailing in Laredo Channel when a group of Dall’s porpoises appeared out of nowhere and started “bow riding.” It was an exciting and invigorating experience to watch as the porpoises played in the breaking wake of the boat. This kept their interest for about five minutes and then they disappeared as suddenly as they arrived.

On day four, the sun was shining brightly. We were at the Northern tip of Gil Island near where the Queen of the North sank in 2006. We were heading into Wright Sound when we had over an hour of Humpback whale action right beside the boat. It was spectacular to watch a mother and her juvenile as they played. We were all on high alert, running from one side of the boat to the other, to see where they would surface next. They seemed to be as curious about us as we were about them.

On day five we had the pleasure of going ashore at Taylor Bight on the south end of Gil Island to visit Janie Wray and Herman Meuter at the Cetacea Lab. Perched over a rocky outcrop, it has the perfect vantage point to view the happenings in the Sound. Janie gave us a tour of the lab and patiently answered all our questions. Her passion for everything whales is infectious. As well as visually watching and recording whale sightings, they have installed hydrophones (underwater microphones) all over the area and are constantly listening to and recording whale sounds. We showed Janie some of the photographs we had taken and she was actually able to identify one of the whales by the damage to its fin. The Cetacea Lab also has a volunteer research assistant program in the summer months. People come from all over the world to live in this remote location and help gather data on whales. It was definitely a highlight of our journey.

We also had many encounters with Fin whales. Most of us were fairly uneducated about Fin whales, but after our visit to the Cetacea Lab, their appearance became cause for excitement. They are the second largest mammals on the planet and widely known for their speed. They are also baleen whales, but they do not breach the water like Humpbacks. Instead they move sleekly through the water until they surface, at which point in time, their long backs and prominent dorsal fins are displayed. On day six, we came out of Borrowman Bay and started south down Laredo Channel. We found ourselves surrounded by eight Fin whales and a Humpback whale. They surfaced, expelled some air out of their blowholes, and disappeared repeatedly. The crew pointed out on the chart a massive underwater cliff that we were sailing over. They explained that the Fin whales were most likely feeding on crustaceans or krill brought by the ocean currents forced up the rise.

Additionally, we saw lots of eagles and ravens, some seals and finally on day eight, we spotted a couple of sea otters while we were circumnavigating Lake Island in the Zodiac. They were having a great time fishing in the rough waters. We were all very excited to see them as we had been looking for sea otters our entire voyage.

The Excursions:

A typical day on the Passing Cloud, involved a beach or forest walk. Inevitably, a guest would ask, “What are we going to see?” to which Captain Russ would reply, with a glint in his eye, “I don’t know. I’ve never been here before.” These excursions were always cause for excitement because we were going into “uncharted” territory. On day two we left Tasha and Joel on the boat in Helmcken Inlet and went out exploring in the Zodiac. We hiked, in the heat, up a creek bed to a series of deep pools where everyone (except Lynda and Spencer) braved the frigid water and cooled down. On day three, Joel dropped us off on Campania Island and we hiked up a creek through the evergreens and explored the rugged landscape. It was boggy in some places and rocky in others, but the view was breathtaking. 180 degrees of spectacular coastal mountains and ocean. It was another very hot day and once we returned to the boat, the usual gang went for a refreshing swim in the ocean. On day four, we found a sandy beach on Princess Royal Island and bush wacked our way to an impressive waterfall. On day five, we beachcombed at a bay on Rennison Island where we discovered wolf tracks and beautiful shells. On day six, we dropped anchor in Evinrude Inlet and were taken ashore by Captain Russ, and our engaging naturalist, Spencer. We loosely followed an animal track. There were some obstacles, some detours and frequent stops to eat the scrumptious huckleberries growing in the forest. Eventually, we made it above the creek and found a lake. As we skirted the edge of it, we were on the look out for wildlife, but all we found were some wolf prints in the soft mud. We travelled about a kilometer further to a waterfall, posed for some pictures and turned back for our return journey. Not once, on these excursions, did we meet any other human beings. For that matter, other than on the first and last days of our journey, we saw only a few other boats.

Klemtu:

On our journey north, we passed by the community of Klemtu, population 420. The Kitasoo and Xai’xais people, who are working together to preserve their culture and heritage, inhabit it. From a distance, Captain Russ pointed out the majestic Big House and its totem poles situated on the water’s edge. He promised that we could stop there on our way back. We are so grateful to Vernon Brown for the hour that he gave up, on short notice, to share his culture and stories with us. It was one of the most informative talks that we have had the pleasure of attending.  Afterwards, we meandered down the newly builtDreamcatcher Trail and walked through the village to the hatchery before heading back to the boat.

To Sum It All Up:

We have travelled extensively in other parts of the world, but this excursion gave us an opportunity to experience beauty in our own backyard. As further testament to the quality of the Outer Shores experience, our shipmates George and Irene were on their sixth trip. Patricia was on her second trip aboard the Passing Cloud, and had come from the Netherlands to do so. We think it is fair to say that there is something for everyone on an Outer Shores expedition. It is highly likely that we will be back for the Haida Gwaii trip in the not so distant future!

Photos - Day 1
Photos - Day 2
Photos - Day 3
Photos - Day 4
Photos - Day 5
Photos - Day 6
Photos - Day 7
Photos - Day 8

Livingstone, Zambia

Waterberry Lodge seemed like a suitable place to wind down our vacation. After seven weeks of being on the go, we were ready for some rest and relaxation. Our only plans were to visit both the Zambian and Zimbabwean sides of Victoria Falls, which we were able to do with our Kaza visa. Our Waterberry guide, Kandenga, did an excellent job of coaching us through the protocol for both visits. For example, baboons are rampant on the Zambian side. Kandenga equipped us with a slingshot, which we merely had to show to the baboons to scare them away. However, you are not allowed to carry a slingshot in Zimbabwe, so while he gave it to us, we did not bring it out past “no man’s land” on the bridge. As it turns out, there are no baboons in the park on the Zimbabwe side, so we didn’t need it after all.
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For those of you who are wondering, at this time of year when the water is low, the Zimbabwe side of Victoria Falls is way better. The water was more plentiful and the spray was very refreshing on a hot day. We wouldn’t want to be there in April when the water level is at its peak. Apparently, you can barely see your hand, never mind the falls. Later that day, we walked to the iconic Victoria Falls Hotel and had gin and tonics on the patio. Our original plan was to splurge on the High Tea, but we knew a gourmet dinner was awaiting us at Waterberry, so we skipped it.

On our first evening at Waterberry, we went on a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River with Cris. We meandered down river and viewed the resident crocodiles, hippos and birds while enjoying our sundowners. It turned out Cris was an avid fisherman and so arrangements were made to go fishing later in the week. On our last night, we left the dock at 4:30 pm and headed down river. Lynda practiced her casting skills, but Craig was the fisherman of the hour. He caught two tiger fish, brought one into the boat, and then released it back into the river after some quick photos. It was a very peaceful way to end the day. Lynda was sure she could have caught a fish if she’d had more time.
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We went on a morning visit with medium Webby to the local village supported by Waterberry Lodge. Unfortunately, school was not in session, but we did see lots of kids who were eager to pose for pictures (provided you let them view themselves afterwards.) We also saw the newly installed water pump. It was generously donated to the village after one of the residents was attacked by a crocodile and nearly lost her leg. According to Webby, it is being used, but many people still go to the river because they prefer the taste of the water. As with anything, it will take people time to transition to the new way of doing things.
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After two months, our African adventure has come to an end. Lynda is quite interested in returning to Zambia to go on safari in South Luangwa national park, but after talking to our new British friend, Fiona, Craig has other plans. He wants to go to Borneo, or to Uganda to see the gorillas. It seems that every time we cross something off our bucket list, five more things are added.

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Chobe Elephant Camp

Kasane Airport is undergoing an extensive expansion which will obviously increase its capacity. Other than Maun, all of the other airstrips we have been at have been nothing more than a sand path carved out of the jungle. When the plane picked us up at Selinda, it was full so Craig volunteered to be copilot. It was quite a trip as it was a six month old turbo prop, with lots of cool stuff to look at. Twenty minutes and a few bumps later, we arrived at our destination. We were picked up by Face from Chobe Elephant Camp and after the arrival of Kate from Boston and Eileen from New York, we headed out. For all those people who think we are adventurous, we are amateurs compared to these two ladies. They have an impressive résumé which we could only dream of matching. We also enjoyed the company of Andy and Natalie from Guernsey in the Channel Islands. They were just starting their safari vacation and their enthusiasm was contagious.

Chobe Elephant Camp is high on a ridge overlooking wheat coloured plains.The view is impressive. They have 11 cabins, the main lodge and a swimming pool. It is an un-fenced camp so after dark, the guides walk guests to and from their cabins. Animal visitors are not uncommon. Apparently the elephants have enjoyed the pool a little too much. It is now protected by an electrified fence at night.

Chobe is a national park which means that the hours are restricted and there is no off road driving. This makes it more difficult to view animals, but our guide Innocent worked very hard to maximize our experience. On our first morning we saw a leopard drag an impala high into a tree to escape from two hungry lions prowling around the base. We saw another pride of five lions sleeping in the shade. There were herds of buffaloes, roan and sable antelopes, and vast numbers of giraffes, zebras and impalas. We also saw many different kinds of birds, especially on our afternoon cruise on the Chobe River. We are only just beginning to appreciate birding. Sometimes, it is just too overwhelming.

The interesting thing about the Chobe River is that it is the dividing line between Namibia and Botswana. Animals regularly cross between the two countries. About twenty minutes away is the Kazangula border crossing. It is the place where four countries intersect: Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe. This was where we went after three nights in Chobe to cross into Zambia. Thanks to Bushtracks Africa we successfully exited Botswana and entered Zambia with no fuss. The only issue was the souvenir hawkers who persistently tried to sell us their wares. We were able to escape into the van to fend them off.

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It's hard to believe, but we are down to our last four nights in Africa. How did that happen?

Selinda Explorers Camp

Brilliant! It is hard to describe what a wonderful experience we had there. Right from the start we had tremendous animal sightings. On the game drive from the airport to the camp with our guide, Mokopi, we saw the most stunning leopard imaginable. She was in a tree in a mopani forest and not at all bothered by our presence. She found a comfortable position, lay down and went to sleep. We were a mere eight to ten feet away from her, and the light was perfect. We could have sat and watched her all afternoon. We also saw a male lion sleeping in the shade of a tree, a few sable antelopes (a first for us) and a dead aardvark that was being feasted on by vultures. It was not the prettiest sight, but it is another example of the efficiency of nature. The only aardvark it was possible for us to see (a night creature) would be consumed within hours.

Selinda Explorer's Camp is located on the Selinda Spillway. It is designed to replicate the original tented safari camps from days gone past. It is casually elegant. Heavy wooden furniture, exotic carpets, oversized pillows, and lots of lounging places. We were definitely back in our comfort zone. The waterway is a popular spot for elephants. In the afternoons, they make their way down to drink, bathe, splash and play. We never got tired of watching them. If you are adventurous you can book the Explorer's canoe trip which is four nights and five days of "glamping." We aren't likely to sign up for this as Craig gets so distracted by photography that he forgets to paddle, and Lynda doesn't have enough experience to be the captain.

We were also treated to several wild dog sightings. One morning, Mokopi took us to a den where we saw both adults and puppies. The adults were all sleeping, but the puppies were whining and romping around. Another day we were near the end of our morning game drive when Mokopi spotted an excessively large number of vultures circling around. We changed course and headed in their direction. Sure enough there was a pack of wild dogs with the remains of a fresh Kudu kill. Mokopi surmised that we missed the take down by 30 minutes. All that remained at that point was the backbone, the ribs, one leg and the skin. The dogs gorged themselves to the point that their stomachs were severely distended. They need to do this because they regurgitate their food later to feed babies and other members of the pack. On our final morning, another guide found a large pack of newcomers to the area. They were in full hunting mode, but by the time we got there, the dogs had changed their minds and gone to sleep.

We had an amazing lion encounter. We stopped at a watering hole so Craig could take another hippo picture. The sound of the truck caused a head to pop up out of the grass. It did not escape Mokopi's keen eyes. There was a male lion about 100 metres away. We drove over to check him out. Although we were there for about ten minutes, the lion was incredibly uninteresting and we were going to leave. Then Mokopi spotted a set of ears in an adjacent field about 200 metres away. We quickly drove over there and discovered it was a female lion. She was sleeping in the shade, but then she decided to make a move. She led us to a mother, her six month old cub and another female. They were sleeping in the shade of their individual bushes, but they were all within close proximity of each other. We had driven right past them without seeing them in the tall grass. As the sun set and it became cooler, all the lions decided to move. We followed them, lost them, found one of them, and watched as that female met up with the male we had seen earlier. Unfortunately, it was getting dark and we had to return to camp, but it was thrilling to be so close to the lions, yet again.

To Mokopi, Kerrie, Ashley, Freeman, Joe, the chef and all the kitchen and room staff who took such great care of us, we send a huge "thank you." We especially appreciated the romantic dinner for two on our second night when we were the only guests in camp. They set a beautiful table, hung some lanterns, made a fire right outside our tent, and we dined under the stars. On our last night, the camp was full and we were all treated to a traditional Botswana meal. Tradition dictates that the women wash their husband's hands, serve him his meal and sit on the floor at his feet. You had your moment, Craig. It is not likely to ever happen again.

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A final note: None of this could have been possible without the commitment and dedication of the owners of Great Plains Conservation and the Selinda Concession, Dereck and Beverly Joubert. They have been studying, filming and photographing African animals for twenty five years. Their efforts allow people like us to share in the wonder, and for that we are eternally grateful. (We were lucky enough to see the Jouberts in their vehicle the morning we went to the wild dog den. They hung back while we spent some time there. We are looking forward to seeing the results of their latest project.)

Sango Safari Camp

Sango Safari Camp is situated in a peaceful location on the banks of the Khwai River. It is an open camp which means that animals are free to wander in at any time. The tented cabins have hardwood floors, comfortable beds, outdoor solar showers and decks facing the river. The sounds at night are spectacular. We were awakened one night by a chorus of thousands of frogs. Another night we were sandwiched between two hungry elephants.

We enjoyed the friendliness of the staff members. Led by Neo, they exuberantly sing the most beautiful welcome song every time new guests arrive. The food was plentiful and delicious. Unfortunately, our stomachs are getting into some very bad habits. It's like being on a cruise ship for a month. There were twelve guests in total, divided between two vehicles for our game drives. Meals were shared around a communal table so we were able to socialize with everyone.

Sango has the luxury of being situated between two parks. Moremi, which is a national park, and the Khwai Concession. We went into both for our game drives. The benefit of Khwai is that you can drive anywhere. In the national parks, you are required to stay on the designated roads. We saw lots of animals during our time at Sango. Leopards kept showing up everywhere! It was especially exciting to finally see some babies. We saw a leopard and her adorable cub, frisky African wild dog puppies and baby hyenas nursing at night.

We knew that Sango would be a different experience than Footsteps. For one, we were sharing the camp with other people. Secondly, Sango is located near a village and is popular with self drivers and mobile safaris. The greater volume of traffic means the scarcer animals like leopards and lions and hyenas seem to be scattered further out into the bush. We maximized our time there with game drives, night drives and a mokoro ride. Now we are more than ready to return to the bush and bucket showers at Selinda Explorer's Camp.

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Footsteps Across the Delta

We were extremely fortunate! Not only were we the only passengers aboard the Safari Air flight to Shinde, but we were the only guests at Footsteps for the four nights we stayed there. Eight staff members and us. What a treat! Led by our guide, Moses, and our driver, Noah, we saw a huge array of animals and birds. There are so many birds that it was difficult to keep them straight in our heads. The mammals are easier to remember. Our days revolved around food and game drives. Breakfast at 7:30 am. Lunch at 12:00 pm. Afternoon snack at 3:30. Dinner at 7:30. If we eat this well at all the camps we will have some serious weight to lose when we return home. For the most part, the game drives were after breakfast and before dinner. We also went on a couple of walks, had a mokoro (hollowed out log boat) ride and went fishing twice. For safety reasons, Moses carried a 458 calibre rifle any time we were out of camp and not in the safari vehicle. Luckily, he didn't have to use it.

We were fortunate enough to see a pride of eight lions three days in a row. They reminded us of house cats. Every time we saw them they were warming themselves in the sun or sleeping in the shade. One afternoon we had our sundowners with them. One of the juvenile males was six feet away on one side, while a juvenile female was the same distance away on the other. It was quite intimidating. In real life, everything about them is big...their heads, paws and teeth! We kept thinking they would get hungry and start hunting, but no such luck. At least they didn't go after us.

There was also an abundance of hippos at Footsteps. They love their water holes. In most cases, all you can see as you approach is the tops of their heads sticking out of the water. They disappear under the surface, only to reemerge a few minutes later. Hippos are quick to show their displeasure when you get too close. They raise their heads and shoulders out of the water, open their mouths wide and show their teeth. We also saw them at night on our game drive. They were scuttling across the plains, munching on sweet green grasses. We must have seen a hundred of them over four days.

Another highlight was the male and female leopards we saw not long after arriving at Shinde. The leopards had been sighted in the morning so we started searching the area around their last known location. We searched high and low.  We were just about to give up when we found them sleeping at the base of a shaded tree. They looked dead to the world. Moses explained that they were mating and they would have sex often, so if we waited, we would likely see some action. Sure enough, it happened. For safety in the wild it only takes about five seconds and then they both went back to sleep. It was amazing to be so close to two such beautiful creatures.

The morning we left was full of excitement. There was an elephant hanging out between our tent and tent three. He was enjoying a feast of jackal berries and made it clear he was not leaving. As we prepared to say goodbye to the staff, Noah ran up saying that he had spotted wild dogs. We yelled for Craig and Moses, quickly said our goodbyes and jumped into the truck. We caught up to them on the road. It was apparent they were hunting. They kept raising their heads to sniff the air. We followed them as far as we could, but we had to give up. We drove towards the mokoro crossing and about a km away from it the wild dogs appeared on the road in front of us. We watched them disappear into the tall grasses. Before we could move, a big male leopard shot across the road and startled us. He was going in the same direction as the dogs. We took off after all of them, but we lost them. It was exhilarating and disappointing all at the same time.

We arrived at the airfield early which was incredibly lucky. Sitting on a termite mound at the edge of the airstrip were two of Africa's finest kings. One of them was sound asleep, but the other one was alert and surveying his domain. He got up and started to move so we repositioned the truck. He came directly towards us and sat down in the shade of our vehicle. He was no more than three feet away, closest to Moses and Craig. Moses wasn't taking any chances with these big boys. He asked the driver to put some distance between us. There were a few tense moments as the engine failed to turn over, then it sprung to life. We moved a safe distance away and continued watching them as long as we could.

Footsteps was amazing. We saw so many of the animals on our list (lions, leopards, hyenas, hippos, and wild dogs) and others that we didn't even know existed (tsessebes, reedbucks, lechwes, and genets). We marvelled at the thousands of stars in the night sky and enjoyed the company of our Bostwana hosts. As we boarded our plane and headed to the Khwai airfield and Sango Safari Camp, we feel incredibly fortunate that we have the desire and the means to have had these spectacular adventures.

Lots of photos

Namibia, week four, the San

We went through another veterinarian gate and left the park. We spent one full day at a very nice lodge in the Onguma Wildlife Reserve. We were camping, of course, but we got to go on a night drive, communicate with the outside world through their wifi and clean up. Lynda's favourite animal family was spotted in the form of the rare African Wildcat. It's as cute as a house cat, and about the same size, but apparently very vicious. We also saw Bush Babies and Spring Hares which are nocturnal and seldom seen, except at night. Being served breakfast in the morning made life easy as the last two drives in our Bushlore "campa" were long ones and we appreciated the early start. 

After topping up the diesel fuel in Grootfontein we headed down, yet another, dirt track. We made great time. After only five hours we arrived at the Nhoma Safari Camp, a wonderful place. The camp is situated next to a traditional San village and employs the villagers to cook, clean, interpret and take guests on excursions. We were able to watch the women make their crafts, and play traditional games. We also spent a morning walking and hunting with four San men. They showed us how to start a fire using sticks, build a snare, and an arrow. They also have an amazing knowledge of the available plant species and their uses. Nothing ever happens in a hurry. The arrow building demonstration alone took four guys over an hour because everything comes with multiple smoke breaks. Pipe tobacco is either rolled in newspaper or pressed into a large caliber shell casing and communally smoked. When the shell casing gets so hot that it burns their lips, they roll the brass between their hands to dissipate the heat and continue smoking. On our last night for a couple of hours, we witnessed a healing ceremony which consisted of chanting and dancing around the fire. Apparently, this goes on until daylight if you have the stamina. We would have liked to have stayed for another day at Nhoma, but we ran out of time in Namibia. As we left Nhoma, we gave a ride to three men from the village. They were going to visit family in a village on the main road. We dropped them off at their destination and ended up replacing them with three different men who were going shopping in Tsumkwe. You could actually run a business as a shuttle service on these roads. Unfortunately, you'd be paid in tobacco or monkey fruit.

Our seven hour journey to Maun, Botswana was long, but uneventful. The roads in and out of the Dobe border crossing were no worse than any of the other Namibian roads we encountered. At the crossing there was a police officer, immigration officer and veterinary officer on both the Namibian and Botswana sides. We were dismayed to find out that Botswana immigration would only give us a 14 day visa when our stay is actually 18 days long. They told us we'd have to go to the main office in Maun to get an extension. As we drove to Maun, the one difference we noticed is that Namibia has acre after acre of fence line running along the roads. In Botswana there are no fences. As a result, there are goats, donkeys, and cattle wandering into the road on a continual basis. You have to be alert so you don't hit them. 

We had two nights at the Discovery Bed and Breakfast on the outskirts of Maun. We were happy to be staying outside of the hustle and bustle of town. Marije and Rene have owned the place for eight years and they have fourteen chickens and three cats. There are goats and cattle wandering around the neighbourhood. It was a peaceful setting and a great place to prep for the next part of our adventure. 

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